The jūnihitoe (十二単) is an extremely elegant and highly complex kimono that was only worn by court-ladies in Japan. The jūnihitoe started to appear around the 10th century during the Heian Era. The various layers are silk garments.
Literally translated, it means "twelve-layer robe". The colours and the arrangements of the layers are very important.The older term,
still used by scholars but not widely recognised in mainstream Japan, is
Karaginu Mo (唐衣裳). This is in reference to its Chinese coat (Karaginu) and apron-like train (Mo), the defining parts of the costume.
An important accessory was an elaborate fan,
which could be tied together by a rope when folded. This was used by
the lady not only to cool herself, since it could get very hot, but it
was also an important communication device. Since a lady was not allowed
to speak face-to-face to a male outsider, she could hold her sleeve up
or use her opened fan to shield herself from inquiring looks.
Communication to a suitor had to follow with her normally hiding behind
the sudare (screen or blinds) in any case. The suitor could only see the sleeves of her jūnihitoe
that were peeking underneath the blinds. This practice was prominent
during the Heian-Era, being frequently and accurately described in the Tale of Genji (jp: Genji monogatari).
The movement in such a robe could be difficult due to its weight. Ladies actually slept in their jūnihitoe sometimes, using it as a form of pajamas. Layers could be shed or kept, depending on the season and the night temperatures.
Today the jūnihitoe can only be seen in museums, in movies, or at certain festivals. Production of jūnihitoe has almost died out. These robes are priceless and are one of the most expensive items of Japanese clothing.
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